Johan Thyriot (3 toques at Domaine du Colombier, Malataverne) has transformed the former gendarmerie in Bourg-Saint-Andéol into a friendly bistro, where complaints are now a rarity (even if service can be a little hesitant). The daily menu is simple, straightforward and very inexpensive (caillette ardéchoise, vegetable tian and creamy polenta, crème brûlée, all for the modest sum of €23), and the small cellar, exclusively from the Ardèche, is a perfect match for this instant cuisine. For a special touch, don't hesitate to take a look at the toilets, housed in the former... drunk tank.
