At the center of the action is a classic that appeals to a broad spectrum, with a plethora of dishes to suit all tastes: onion soup, escargots, boîte chaude and fondues, spider crab celery pomme verte and Cadoret oysters, sole meunière and tartare, the word "truffle" all over the place and a little caviar for customers who like it to shine. And suggestions of the moment on the slate, such as the coquelet ail en chemise or the burger frisée aux lardons.