Le Bout des Canards

57790 LORQUIN

13/20
Chef's Restaurant

3 PHOTOS

Chef Pierre Forst

Cooking French | Modern | Signature cuisine

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

19€ à 62€

Gault&Millau's review

13/20

Chef's Restaurant This village restaurant has changed a lot since 2023, when Pauline Schohn and Pierre Forst turned it into a table where cuisine shines. This young couple, who came from the Villa René Lalique and the Trois Tours in Bourguillon, Switzerland, have surprised many in the restaurant's tastefully updated, but unremarkable décor. Pierre Forst's cuisine is modern, clear and easy to understand, with specialties that, on the à la carte menu, are veritable masterpieces of composition. The tone is set right from the start with an amuse-bouche of velvety Jerusalem artichokes, soy mousse and slivers of fresh walnuts, followed by Alteville lentils in a jelly and smoked bacon mousse; the subtle orange flavor makes all the difference. The jambonneau traditionally served in winstubs is here revisited with a sense of refinement and an amusing confrontation of soft and crispy textures; it is enhanced by an emulsion and a mustard glaze. Arctic char tartare is precisely seasoned, combined with Tarocco orange and sheep's milk cream, and a fresh carrot granita. The chef has a very solid grounding in low-temperature cooking techniques, as evidenced by this admirable trout whose flesh appears neither raw nor cooked, a model of its kind even if the sauce has a tendency to drown it. The highlight of the meal is the sublime, long-cooked shoulder of lamb that melts in the mouth: it's enhanced by a well-reduced, aromatic jus; roasted rutabaga with forest honey, apple and yogurt enrich this rich composition with acidic nuances. The tangy flavors are echoed in the lemon and passion fruit dessert, which forms a fine, crisp potato millefeuille. Chocophiles will delight in the creamy Taïnori chocolate emulsion and light Diplomatico rum mousse. The wine list is in need of expansion, although wines by the glass come from all over and are offered at reasonable prices. Although supervised by Pauline Schohn, who trained in some of the world's top establishments and won the "Trophée Gault&Millau jeune talent du service en salle Grand Est 2020", the service is unpretentious.