As the years go by, the quiet, traditional allure of the bistro run by Philippe Faure-Brac, MOF honoris causa and a sommelier respected the world over, becomes a little more pronounced. There's no mistaking the cellar, of course, but there's no mistaking chef Logan Nacharamma's updated offering of classic dishes: octopus confit in leek and fennel carpaccio in a saffron marinade, filet mignon of pig in a chorizo crust with spiced red cabbage, candied citron from Corsica, crunchy meringue with chestnut cream on a menu that changes with the seasons. Very good and interesting selection by the glass.