A sommelier's bistro, of course, but the work of the immense Philippe Faure-Brac, whose collection of titles and medals could no doubt make a North Korean general jealous. Lovely pâté en croûte with veal and pig stuffing and duck foie gras, well-respected scallops with their classic Jerusalem artichoke mousseline and sea urchin coral cream, and a sad seasonal fruit tartlet (a few raspberries got lost in the middle of winter, which surprised even the staff). Excellent choice of wines by the glass, at coherent prices, the service perpetuating the founder's spirit by offering customers blind tastings.