In the immediate vicinity of Porte de Versailles, Beurre Noisette offers what its name implies: a cuisine that draws on tradition, with a little extra fantasy to justify the bourgeois bistro variation. Saddle of lamb with eryngiis, pâté en croûte with buckwheat, and a touch of Brittany in the ribot ice cream on apple sablé. The wine list includes a few well-known references, and a few marshmallows to sweeten the bill.