Le 39V

Rating: 15
Author: Gault&Millau

75008 PARIS

15/20
Remarkable Restaurant

17 PHOTOS

Chef: Frédéric Vardon
Cooking: Signature cuisine
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Takeaway | Valet parking
Style: Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

49.50 to 145

Gault&Millau's review 2026

A discreet entrance through a pretty courtyard brightened by a hint of greenery... An elevator that propels you up to the 6ᵉ floor... All that's left for you to do is fully appreciate the comfort of the armchairs and banquettes, the quiet elegance of a room that takes on an even greater dimension when daylight floods in without restraint and you can then admire the hanging garden and the city's rooftops (avoid the table right next to the terrace entrance). In the glass-roofed kitchens, the brigade is ready to execute a classic score, reassuring but by no means dull. Frédéric Vardon is not one to chase after the latest trends. Start with "macaroni just au gratin", morels and vintage Comté cheese. You'll be seduced by this magical combination, especially when it's technically perfectly mastered. At the market's whim, "sustainably caught fish" needs little artifice to shine: pretty, incisively fresh hulls are all it needs. Also, the potato served in tiny balls seems less convincing. The meal ends quietly, without fear of telluric tremors, with a praline-hazelnut soufflé in line with academy standards. The service is friendly and lively. The well-presented wine list inspires confidence. The spectrum is wide, including in terms of price, from a Chignin-Bergon from Domaine Ravier to a Pétrus, vintage 2012.