Le 1617

Rating: 11
Author: Gault&Millau

7 Rue des Seigneurs, 68590 Rodern, France

11/20
Gourmet Restaurant

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Location: Rodern
Cooking: French | Traditional
Services: Children's Menu, Garden, Privatization

Gault&Millau's review 2026

11/20

Gourmet Restaurant

In this small village off the Alsace Wine Route, Pierre-Philippe Buliard has spent a great deal to renovate this mansion, whose sign refers to the year it was built. The dining room, bright and minimalist, embraces a contemporary, understated style—with an open kitchen and white plaster walls—while paying homage to the past by leaving a section of the original wall exposed. Trained by Bruno Sohn, the chef creates classic cuisine, sometimes inspired by Alsatian regional traditions, which he offers as a very affordable three-course set menu for €37. The salmon tartare, served on a bed of lentils and enhanced with a mustard cream, is refreshingly crisp. The chuck steak ravioli, beneath its veil of pasta and Parmesan emulsion, evokes the comforting, unpretentious recipes from the day after a pot-au-feu. The thick slice of cod, seared to perfection, rests on a creamy carrot purée with a subtle hint of lemon; it’s accompanied by mini zucchini boiled in water, out-of-season cherry tomatoes, and slightly incongruous potato wedges that also appear in other dishes. The desserts, meanwhile, delight without overdoing it: a moist chocolate fondant, served warm with raspberry ice cream that one readily assumes is homemade; a “deconstructed” tiramisu where mascarpone cream and shortbread make for a pleasant pairing. Fabrice Follin speaks about wine with infectious enthusiasm, readily venturing beyond the usual Alsatian selections to recommend wines from Cahors or the Languedoc.