In this small village off the Alsace wine route, Margaux Pic and Pierre-Philippe Buliard have lavishly renovated this manor house, whose name refers to the year it was built. The bright, uncluttered dining room has a sober, contemporary feel: open-plan kitchen, white plaster walls, and a wink to the past in the form of an exposed section of old wall. Trained by Bruno Sohn, the chef prepares a classic cuisine, sometimes inspired by the Alsatian terroir, which he offers in the form of a three-course menu at a very affordable €37. The salmon tartare, served on lentils and topped with a mustard cream, is invigoratingly fresh. The chuck ravioli, with its veil of pastry and parmesan emulsion, is reminiscent of the comforting, no-frills recipes of the day after pot-au-feu. Thick cod, snacked with precision, rests on a creamy carrot purée with a discreet lemon flavor; it is accompanied by boiled mini zucchini, out-of-season cherry tomato and slightly incongruous potato "wedges" found in other dishes. The final sweets, on the other hand, delight without forcing the issue: a soft chocolate fondant, served warm with a raspberry ice cream that we like to think is home-made; a "deconstructed" tiramisu where mascarpone cream and shortbread play a pleasant duet. Fabrice Follin speaks of wine with infectious enthusiasm, willingly stepping off the beaten Alsatian track to suggest Cahors or Languedoc.
Chef
