Mélanie Serre’s former restaurant has been transformed into a new establishment, once again led by an excellent chef, Wilfried Romain. This volcano enthusiast (hence the sign) is forging his path with energy and skill, making this spot near the Mutualité one of the most interesting in the district: confit leeks with faisselle ice cream, capers, grapes, and sorrel cream; confit pork loin with sweet potato purée, mole sauce, and caramel sauce; and coconut rice pudding with elderflower ice cream—all part of a very good lunch special for €29. A more elaborate menu is offered in the evening, always with a focus on highlighting the ingredients and finding the right spices or flavor combinations.