When you first discover the place, just a few minutes from Saint-Junien, it's hard not to be charmed by the delightful park in which La Table de Florent is set. Adjoining the elegant Manoir des Perrières, which also offers overnight accommodation, the restaurant of our Dotation pour les Jeunes Talents winner deftly blends the charm of old stones with contemporary furnishings, in keeping with a cuisine that plays on both traditional and modern registers: a lovely Dordogne trout married with asparagus and haddock, between sweetness and character, a precisely-cooked maigre de ligne, enhanced by a pretty violet mustard sauce and textured chard before a baba à la Gauloise verte, a clever nod to one of the region's specialties. The cellar is exclusively organic and a tad fashionable, and the service, sometimes provided by Florent Linard leaving his open kitchen, could do with a little more relaxation.