On a cold winter's night in Auvergne, it can be hard to keep warm. Lard et la manière, a generous family-run restaurant in the heart of town, on a street next to the Place de Jaude, is the place to find comfort. For starters, eggs meurette and butternut velouté give way to sweetbreads and a slightly salty porcini truffle that's well worth trying. For dessert, we offer the classic rice pudding or French toast brioche. Whether it's the dishes or the warmth of the restaurant, which is often fully booked, you'll feel right at home. The €37 menu is a bargain.