Editor's note: The restaurant is temporarily closed following major water damage in September. In his new setting, in keeping with the modernity of his cuisine, Gaëtan Morvan invites us to experience creative dishes, both in their artistic presentation and in the constant search for harmonious flavors. Herbs, spices and sauces accompany regional products, selected with the utmost care, on a journey where taste is straightforward and clean, in increasingly refined dishes. After the salty crumpled dish with the ingredients in the restaurant's name, a vegetable bubble is combined with local crémet, smoked eel with fir jelly and an oyster encased in a marble lets the sea explode, all the while sautéing without restraint with a warm brioche, muscadet juice and Thai basil; green lentils take us on a discovery of Indian spices and turmeric before a squab with cucurbit and verbena infusion. The wine list, with more than 500 references, is the fruit of a quest for good, lively wines, such as those of Tessa Laroche or La coulée de Serrant, confidently recommended by an attentive sommelier; you can also opt for non-alcoholic pairings based on fermentations, infusions or elixirs; desserts feature strawberries wrapped in a fine tartelette and under a jelly scented with Damask rose, and another crumpled pastry, this time sweet.