Estelle and Xavier Pouzin have taken over this great Montmartre spot to breathe new life into it. Estelle, who runs the dining room, effortlessly explains Xavier’s cuisine—clear and straightforward—whether on the €32 lunch menu or the dinner menu, which shows definite ambition with dishes like crab and avocado, red mullet and gurnard with eggplant in lobster sauce, and the Tarte Tatin, all presented in a well-executed sequence worthy of a top-tier chef’s hat. Premium dishes for connoisseurs round out the offerings, such as sole meunière or veal sweetbreads with reduced sauce.