If the place hasn't gained in gaiety, the business remains serious in a good way, with a chef who knows how to do things, masters them and even innovates. Junko Kawasaki still pays homage to French cuisine, while retaining her deep roots: the menus (€60 and €70) allow you to mix and match, with perfect eggs with broad beans and farmhouse pork tonkatsu, wagyu nigiri, candied yellowtail or marinated rib-eye. A varied cellar.