La Table de Vartan

69150 DÉCINES-CHARPIEU
11.5/20
 Gourmet Restaurant
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Cooking
French | Local
Services
Access for people with disabilities | Cooking lessons | Private Parking
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
19 € to 24 €

Gault&Millau's review

11.5/20
Gourmet Restaurant Juliette Gindre, who trained at the École de mines de Saint-Étienne, turned to cooking, taking a CAP (vocational training certificate) after completing her doctorate in mechanics at INSA Lyon. For four years, she worked at L'Institution, a trendy restaurant on the Presqu'île. There, alone at the helm of this pocket restaurant planted in the heart of the greenhouses of the Jardins de Vartan (pronounced "var-tanne", as in Armenia), in Décines, she has only to bend down to pick up the top vegetables from the market gardener star of a large part of Lyon's bistronomic scene (Substrat, Le Kitchen, En Mets Fais ce qu'il te Plaît...). The plates are bright and colorful, well balanced between the nervousness of the acids and that ever sought-after hint of sweetness, as in this mango vinaigrette on beef tataki, or in this crispy acacia flower fritter plunged into the vivacity of a gazpacho of pea pods and cucumber. The chopped snow pea salad is amazing, the homemade bread insane, the canons from well-selected winemaker friends: never has the "Farm to Fork" concept lived up to its name so well!
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Address 45 Route de Vaulx-en-Velin
69150 Décines-Charpieu
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