Mickaël Pihours doesn't choose between everyday bourgeois cuisine and gastro-targeted fare, offering a well-organized menu that gives diners plenty of opportunities to indulge in this welcoming contemporary setting. Fresh with celery remoulade with yuzu, gourmet with organic beef terrine, grise d'Anjou and chorizo, and generous with blanquette with combawa, mashed sausage or calf's head to share. A good menu at €34, with baked apple with rum and grape ice cream for dessert. Wines from the region and beyond.