In the Catalan Pyrenees, on the road from Spain to Perpignan, Sandrine and Julien Blaya's auberge is a fine, traditional, family-run address, set in a large stone building that's very much to the point. The chef generously showcases his region, with inspired Franco-Catalan compositions: crispy black pudding with gribiche sauce and red onion pickles, semi-cooked foie gras with Espelette chili, cod back with black garlic sweetness, duck breast with spicy pepper-cocoa jus, a must-try Catalan cream with almond crunch. Regional wineries (Pithon, Lafage, Clos des fées, domaine Pena...).