In the calanque of Niolon, a family-run seaside restaurant in a privileged location (come early if you hope to park, it's generally impossible at mealtimes, and the slope is steep...). The Piedades work as a family, and Joaquim, the owner, has kept the tradition of grilled fish out of the water. While admiring the view over Marseille, from La Bonne Mère to L'Estaque, you can enjoy the pergola under the 30-year-old Virginia creeper, savouring cod acras, oysters, the day's arrivals, and a medium-but-well-cooked veal chop. Cellar accompaniment as expected, with local rosés.