Nestled in Grasse, the perfume capital of France, La Fleur de Lys is just around the corner. As soon as we enter, we discover a magnificent 18th-century vaulted room in place of a former tannery. The owner's welcome is inviting, everything is homemade and the products come from local producers and artisans. A well-balanced ceviche of sea bream with diced mango, melon and citrus fruit, followed by honey-roasted duck breast with zucchini mousse and a well-executed "carnaroli" risotto with prawns. As for desserts, they're just like the menu: few and far between, but made to order. The white chocolate moelleux with a heart of a famous spread will make you melt, despite the rather heavy caramel and powdered sugar decor. A good, varied cellar covering all the regions.