In this student district between Luxembourg and the Panthéon, where touristy restaurants have taken over almost the entire market, this Ferrandaise is putting up a witty and appropriate resistance. At the helm is an Auvergnat, a fan of rugby and stews, who pays homage to the famous breed of Auvergnat cow on a menu that is clearly oriented towards tradition: marrow bone au gratin, veal blanquette rice pilaf, calf's head with gribiche sauce, vanilla rice pudding... A good menu at €39 (called Test Match), a classic cellar that probably deserves a little more attention from the new generation of Auvergnats.