It's a table apart near Castellane, which says nothing about the treasures it contains. Laëtitia Visse's art of simplicity and obviousness sublimates the most classic dishes. Here, we eat the great meat traditions, in a moment of enjoyment and complicity that's always true: a snail ravioli, Laëtitia Visse's unmissable pâté en croûte, the superb cabbage stuffed with Morteau sausage, pig and apple, a duck breast wellington, a Norman rib-eye steak, sautéed potatoes and roasted vegetables, a tarte bourdaloue. Superb cellar with fine references.