The neighborhood comes alive and the street regains its tourist and gourmet vocation. Brice Gabenisch has returned to the kitchens he occupied six years ago at Le Lavoir, to run a one-man business that's right up with the times. Good local produce, a short menu on the daily slate, tight prices - this is an additional offer that's finding its audience: cod quenelle with mayo bisque and gambas, steamed pollack with pesto verde and snacked scallops, duck breast with zucchini artichoke and teriyaki sauce...