La Condesa Paris

75009 PARIS

14.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

8 PHOTOS

Chef Indra Carrillo Perea

Cooking Cuisine d'auteur | Latin | Mediterranean cuisine | Merger

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

68 € to 180 €

Gault&Millau's review

14.5/20

Chef's Restaurant In the lively 9th arrondissement, just below Pigalle, La Condesa is a confidential and discreet address. In fact, as with the neighborhood's upmarket bars, just ring the bell and they'll let you in! Inside, there's nothing gloomy: the setting is very well thought-out... Pretty tables in precious wood contrast with small armchairs and benches in a delicious fir green. The light is soft, the air-conditioning calms the nerves, and you're just fine. Chef Indra Carrillo Perea has done a lot of travelling, and it shows! The appetizers are like vacation Polaroids: colorful. Smoked eel, kohlrabi and green apple tartlet, avocado seaweed and tomato water tostada, and even a space egg! The small mackerel salad is well seasoned, the agnolotti melt in the mouth with a spicy roasted fennel broth, before dishes that are a little less in control: the pollack is covered with a rather messy black seaweed crust; the pork loin, though marinated in five chillies, is of good quality, the horseradish purée is curiously neutral. The two desserts are in a different tempo. Beet in three ways is like a haute couture dress: a transparent tile covers this beet and pomegranate sorbet. The second dessert is a creation based on oats, rum and white coffee. These flavors are a perfect match. Once again, we cast off for new horizons. This trip comes at a price, but it's well deserved...

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