La Charrue

Rating: 11
Author: Gault&Millau

13 Rue Principale, 67320 Rexingen, France

11/20
Gourmet Restaurant

Cooking: French | Traditional
Style: Casual | With family

Gault&Millau's review 2026

In this village in the Alsace bossue region, where people don't come by chance, this family home immediately inspires respect with its warmth and simple, deeply Alsatian conviviality, making it a place for families to get together. Élisabeth Koehl leads the service with admirable energy, a keen eye for everything and an efficiency that gives the house its distinctive look. The formula, reduced to two menus according to the market, asserts a classic cuisine, rooted in Alsace, far from fashionable constructions and faithful to a generous idea of the table, where sauces, gourmet delights and the nobility of the product still occupy a central place. The duck foie gras with Gewurztraminer, presented in a very classical style, finds in the mango chutney a welcome counterpoint, both sweet and lively, which illuminates the whole with measure. The farmhouse egg cooked at 64°C, enhanced by the presence of Hirschland snails and baby vegetables, highlights the beauty of the products and the right cooking, but the profusion of garlic cream weighs on the balance of the dish. The medallions of monkfish from Brittany, impeccably cooked and remarkably fresh, are supported by a fall of spinach and a buttery, almost Robuchonnian purée, but the invasive turmeric sauce ends up dissolving the dish's contrasts rather than highlighting them. The boskoop apple tartlet from Alsace, baked to perfection and combining compote, pieces of fruit, cinnamon streussel and melting ice cream, is a particularly endearing conclusion, frank in its greediness and fair in its regional expression. The wine list displays real ambition: a solid Alsatian base, a carefully thought-out Burgundy selection and a number of prestigious names that reflect a true wine culture.