It's an understatement to say that this old-fashioned, beige-brown storefront doesn't look like much. Yet the two toques awaiting you inside are very real, bearing the banner of timeless French tradition with foie gras, grilled turbot and veal fillet with salmis sauce, and injecting some zest of the present with scampi bisque with mascarpone on ravioles or piquillo cream on crispy monkfish medallions. A delicious salted butter caramel apple tart as a speciality.