A fine house that holds its own in terms of rank and tradition. The codes of fantasized prestige are well observed here, in particular the various forms of bullying that some believe to be useful, with that little local twist that ends up making them a little endearing. As we've often said, Laurent Lemal is an excellent cook, who almost systematically transforms local recipes into gourmet versions. It works quite well, except for a few details, but his reading shows a lot of hard work. Facing the magnificent bay of Collioure, one can only savor the round of an imposing and imposed menu, hidden, what a pity, and which will only be delivered at the end of the meal. Beautiful things at every turn: textured oysters, sardines and caviar, morel mushroom sauce poulette (a beautiful sauce with crunchy peas, but the mushroom itself, farmed, has little taste), escudella de turbot (a hell of a revisit to this traditional pork and fish stew) with a flattering cream, the lamb is tender and fatty, the most natural part of the meal, with a cromesquis and turnip ravioli, finishing with an honorable variation on citrus fruits, an almost obligatory local theme. Very dedicated service, with a young butler who is very attentive, involved and supportive of the whole team. The cellar is well-stocked with all kinds of wines, from the modern to the traditional, with respect for institutions like Gauby, with a good range of vintages and fair prices in the region, a little more random elsewhere.