L’Oursin - Hôtel Les Roches
1 Avenue des Trois Dauphins, 83980 Le Lavandou, France
5 PHOTOS
Practical information
- Location
- Le Lavandou
- Chef
- Antoine Gras
- Cooking
- French | Gastronomic | Mediterranean
- Services
- Accommodation
- Style
- Elegant, Exceptional setting, Romantic
Budget
(€)
Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
180
Gault&Millau's review 2026
15/20
Remarkable Restaurant
Located across from the Île du Levant, ten minutes from the center of Le Lavandou (sometimes much longer in the summer), the Hôtel des Roches has undergone a complete renovation. Exuding absolute elegance and featuring just two colors—white and Klein blue—it offers a unique panorama: the sea. The restaurant is a glass-enclosed space opening onto the shore, with enough fresh air and sea spray to let the mind wander freely. We’re reunited with the highly talented Antoine Gras, who agreed to leave the mountain pastures of Val-d’Isère for a few weeks to help launch his protégé, Benoit Goulard. The design of the menu showcases a certain transparency, with quality ingredients and culinary skill on every plate. After a few appetizers that are as indulgent as they are visually striking—oysters and gamberoni tartare, a confit cuttlefish tartlet, and bergamot socca—the first starter surprises and tantalizes us. Flame-seared mackerel, a few zebra tomatoes, and onions to balance the flavors. Then, a twisted eggplant nestled in onion compote is accompanied by an exceptional sauce. The highlight is undoubtedly this locally caught red mullet, served alongside melt-in-your-mouth potatoes cut like large calissons and garnished with a confit of fennel and fennel flowers. The rouille here is emulsified and whipped with saffron and a few orange zest strips. But what brilliance! The dessert menu clearly lacks a pastry chef of the same caliber. The pre-dessert—a lemon in candied paste with powdered seaweed—is an idea worth exploring. However, the nectarines—prepared in every possible form and texture—don’t quite live up to expectations. The wine list curated by Magali Delalex is bold. It offers a few discoveries, ranging from local wines of the Var region to those of the Marseille coast. Prices are high.
Map
OPENING HOURS
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Menu
A la carte
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