The best thing about L'Endroit is that it has no major flaws. A prime location in the heart of Batignolles, a lively square, a packed terrace, a menu that’s right on trend, Thai salad, hummus, salmon tataki, but also escargots, egg salad, steak tartare, service just like in Paris—neither too much nor too little—about twenty wines by the glass, mostly from private merchants, and three draft beers.