There's something resolutely personal about Loïc Lefebvre's approach, more concerned with creating a free, contemporary cuisine than with celebrating the omnipresent Alsace in Colmar. Attached more to the product than to the terroir, more to originality than to homage, the chef imagines an experience in his own image, a chic place where you are alone with yourself, in a slight half-light, illuminated by the light of a table lamp, where you see only the plate and its composition. The ideas convey a real finesse, masterful and delicate recipes, a simple summer garden, around vegetable, fruit, flower and aromatic, oyster leaf and apricot, asparagus and tomato water, peas, olive oil and elderberry vinegar, a memorable canon of roast monkfish, with its superb cooking, the lightness so difficult to obtain from the beet and the happy contribution of a verbena condiment, followed by saddle of rabbit, zucchini and cherry, anchovy and sage jus, a dessert of strawberries with Vosges fir and vanilla ice cream. A very fine cellar with a good spread over eastern France, from Champagne to Burgundy.