The epitome of the classic Parisian restaurant, which has not given in to the fashions of the single menu, offering a real menu from which to pick its sequence of the moment in all clarity and fairness. Good work that deserves its chef's hat, with haddock and marlin carpaccio, vegetable brunoise with basil, veal quasi with charlotte potatoes and mushroom cream, and lemon tartelette in a choice of desserts that's a little too conservative. Classic cellar adapted to the price range.