The superb, highly original architecture of this tree building seems to herald whiffs of the avant-garde. But Eric Cellier's wisdom, in this room overlooking the landscape from the second floor (the rooftop of 17ᵉ deploys a much wider panorama), consists in offering a well-oiled brasserie service with sure recipes: brioche and pistachio sausage, devil's sauce, squid tentacles, zucchini, garlic and paprika condiment, in a meticulous execution, de rigueur aligot to recall the heyday of the Maison de la Lozère, house-made floating island for a well-controlled sequence, but one that no longer quite thrills. A well-stocked, well-constructed cellar at attractive prices.