L'Alter/Native

34500 BÉZIERS

16.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

Chef Clément Peine

Cooking Cuisine d'auteur | Gastronomic

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

75€ à 129€

Gault&Millau's review

16.5/20

Remarkable Restaurant A UFO in the sky over Béziers? And yet we're familiar with Gilles Goujon's table citadine, a real success story over the past four years. But this year, what a rediscovery! We thought that the departure of Quentin Pellestor, who left to take over Yannick Delpech's table in Colomiers, would create a little uncertainty, even if the GG signature is virtually an all-risk insurance policy. But we didn't expect such a radiant follow-up, just as we didn't think that the new arrival, Clément Peine, despite his diamond CV (Mauro, Loubet, Troisgros) would be so quick to make his mark. We make no secret of the fact that this Alter-Native is a new table, furious with taste, gnac and seduction. The appetizer bites don't surprise you right away, they end in a fishbone, the emblem of Fontjoncouse's 5-toque chef. And then we take off: the blanc manger surprise, egg and mushroom, an entremet-style replica of the "rotten egg", with a crunchy tart of raw, but warm, yolk, is an addictive starter; the filet of Mediterranean red mullet, melting potato with red mullet brandade is a great cook's dish, lively, rooted and reassuring, which reminded us of a Goujon red mullet from twenty years ago, also wriggling with its rouille siphon, a Catalan fish soup... As for the chervil-printed raviolo, with lobster and baby vegetables inside, and lobster carpaccio, it's pure enjoyment with this powerful yet sweet sauce finished with georgette. You'll think you've seen it all, and you'll be ready to pull out your chef's hat for the chocolate and raspberry dessert. The result is irresistible, very chocolatey, but with the freshness of the raspberry in perfect proportion. Service full of empathy and respect for all guests, a solid and serious cellar that leaves nothing to be desired.

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