In the Goujon family, I ask for the sons, Enzo, usually stationed at Fontjoncouse, and Axel, the gifted pastry chef, who navigates between Béziers and the Corbières. Together with a young chef who arrived recently, they form a formidable trio, closely supervised by Papa Gilles, who taught them everything, especially how to win yellow toques and other red trinkets. And it works! In this hushed interior, where the atmosphere is just a little too polished for this youthful petulance, they produce dishes that are technically above reproach, and some great dishes, such as the magnificent shrimp with its soccarat-style rice (from the bottom of a paella dish) and its head juice, or the hake quenelle with beet like a rose in its jewel case, the Dieppoise sauce and spinach.. We're a little disappointed by the imposed hidden menus, though not the style of this family of epicureans, who know so well the pleasures of the table and its necessary freedom, but we applaud the accuracy of the message, the playful and excellent allusions to the region (fake real mussels, fake real oyster and fake real knife on the "oyster rope"), the spectacular leek whose melting heart is kept with the mackerel bbq, the winning association scallops contised truffle sot l'y laisse poultry juice and artichoke, the hake cauliflower beurre blanc maltais and caviar... It all makes sense, and already shows great talent that will be confirmed over time. A well-stocked cellar with all the region's top wines, wine by the glass with a voice, all managed by a precise and confident sommelier, and a highly motivated young front-of-house team well supervised by the excellent Bruno Furon.
