Ju - Maison de Cuisine

84480 BONNIEUX

15/20
Remarkable Restaurant

Chef Julien Allano

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Local | Signature cuisine

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

48€ à 85€

Gault&Millau's review

15/20

Remarkable Restaurant Ju - Maison de cuisine, in Bonnieux - Luberon, sounds a bit like Bobo's party. And yet, it's hard to find a chef more sincerely committed to his work than Julien Allano. It's true that the Clair de Plume years in Grignan made him well acquainted with this demanding clientele, but his current success extends far beyond aficionados. In the small house in the heart of the village (the former Arôme), he enjoys complete freedom, and his serenity, in the midst of a team of ten or so motivated young people, is a pleasure. Just as much as the pleasure you feel when you see his signature dishes, the travel-themed appetizers, from the Maghreb of his family origins to Asia, the ingenious orchard-forest tureen, quail egg tartlet on top, mushroom royale in the lid and a very good mushroom broth. The butternut with hay sauce heralds autumn, while the Isle-sur-la-Sorgue trout with ikéjimé, dried and smoked, seared on one side, is both sharp and gourmet, with an easy-to-eat sauce and a fine work of texture. There's no doubt that, for the 20-25 diners present, with the help of hidden menus that allow for a fair amount of fantasy, we're all witnessing a performance, like at the show, in its sensory dimension, not just visual and gustatory. And this doesn't rule out gourmet delights, such as the guinea fowl presented as a gibier à la royale and frankly tasty with its tarragon powder and ginger apple tart, and even the dessert, the "crêponné" his grandmother used to make for him, or the pretty, fresh composition on seasonal figs. A rich cellar masterfully led by an enthusiastic young sommelier.