The must-visit Jin, which was among the first to make Japanese haute cuisine accessible to food lovers, is still going strong. The prices have become almost affordable (€120 and €150 for lunch, €230 for dinner) for a truly excellent omakase experience—and, above all, a ritual observed to perfection, one that guests gladly embrace to become part of the performance. A selection of top Burgundy and Champagne wines to accompany the meal.