There's always something to learn from the singular cuisine offered by Oxana Cretu, a Moldavian-born chef with a delicious accent who happily blends a variety of cultures with ease and imagination. Her menu is prodigious, full of ideas, and this enthusiasm is well worth her two toques, in flavors that are willingly tangy, Asian and/or marine: smoked eel with blood orange salsify, spider crab with granny smith and kalamansi, black garlic and poppy saint-pierre, pigeon with sakura chestnuts before a mandarin orange dessert in the beautiful introductory menu at €65 (two other evening formulas at €85 and €115).