Mathieu Boutroy has finally opened his first restaurant with his partner, after spending several years honing his skills in Marc Meurin's teams and at the head of the renowned Cerisier in Vieux-Lille. We're now following him to Villeneuve-d'Ascq, on the Avenue de Flandres, where the chef has taken possession of a large, completely redesigned residence with a modern, uncluttered decor. These attributes are characteristic of the maître de maison, who continues in the same vein as at his previous address, injecting personality into a simple cuisine of traditional dishes revisited with refinement and elegance, and always with a concern for precision of gesture and a certain balance in the plate and flavours. A choice of three menus, from 2 to 5 courses, can be complemented by the chef's two signature dishes: osciètre caviar with champagne sauce, or langoustine with horseradish and dill. Italian-inspired cuttlefish or veal in vitello tonnato precede an attractive work of mushroom and morel mushrooms snacked on a jellied persillade. Well-chosen Angus beef or line-caught sea bass with gray shrimp follow gently on carefully presented plates, before the ballet of cheese carts, followed by the mignardises offered by pastry chef Camille. The combination of passion fruit and chocolate for dessert brings the meal to a close, and we look forward to discovering the next season's offerings. A tempting wine list.
