It's a tribute to Italy's "less is more" culture, with its unrivalled emphasis on goodness and simplicity. Fulvio Trogu's address is a connoisseur's den in the heart of the arrondissement, where you can eat by the slate, with local produce and traditional recipes. We return for the unbeatable delights of mortadella with pistachios, rigatoni alla norma, spaghetti calabrese, linguine with bottarga, veal escalope Milanese and tiramisù.