With its sober, zen-like setting and intimate atmosphere, Loïc Pétri's new restaurant Étude (ex-Sauvage and at the same address) shows its ambitions with noble products and copiously priced menus: €95 for five courses, €139 for eight, and no à la carte menu. The chef's good touch is still present, with less savagery and much more delicacy: on well-found associations, such as celery with sea urchin apple, diving scallops, Jerusalem artichoke and watercress, or lamb with roots and nasturtium.