Épisodes

Rating: 15
Author: Gault&Millau

8 Rue Meissonier, 75017 Paris, France

15/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

4 PHOTOS

Location: Paris
Chef: Guillaume Goupil
Cooking: French | Gastronomic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

145 to 195

Gault&Millau's review 2026

15/20

Remarkable Restaurant

Guillaume Goupil, in the kitchen, and Yoann Grégory, front of house, have breathed new life into what used to be Raphaël Rego’s Oka. The dishes have undoubtedly become more refined, now shining in a style that is certainly more classic (the chef is a MOF, which undoubtedly plays a role) but just as masterfully executed. With meticulously crafted sauces, precise seasoning, and perfectly precise plating, the lovely five- or seven-course menu begins with three top-notch amuse-bouches, including a particularly indulgent pomme dauphine (a Proustian madeleine for the chef) with Béarnaise sauce and bacon, which immediately put the (small) audience (16 guests maximum) in the best of moods. The sequence begins with a mullet lightly cooked in salt and served with a carrot-and-sage vinaigrette, striking a balance between the briny sea flavor and the rich indulgence of the brioche used to mop up the lovely vinaigrette; the curly sparassis, a mushroom increasingly prized in fine dining, is cooked and creamed in a lobster bisque, garnished with cubes of cider jelly for a dish that charms with its many contrasts; line-caught red mullet seared over an open flame, served with braised fennel, leeks, onions, scallions, and bouillabaisse soup, is a beautiful tribute to southern French cuisine. The savory course concludes with a beautiful cut of veal, served with a potato mousseline made with fig leaf-infused butter, fresh figs, and parsley oil. A very elegant grape-based dessert, created by Rémi Blaineau; the wine list is fairly short but features smart selections, and service is expertly orchestrated by Yoann Grégory, also a MOF, whom I previously encountered at Adeline Grattard’s Yam’tcha.