With Raphaël Rego gone, Guillaume Goupil and Yoann Grégory (both MOF in their speciality) have taken over, transforming Oka into Episodes, while retaining the Fogo name for the contemporary cantine where braise cooking takes pride of place. Sixteen covers no more and a five-course menu (which has the good taste of not being in "hidden" mode) at less than 150 euros for an ensemble that seems calibrated to aim for our three toques in the more or less short term. The atmosphere is hushed and relaxed, with lovely desserts by Alexandre Lauret.