A "Brendel-style" setting, meaning color and modernity against a backdrop of tradition, to express exactly what the 4-toque chef (La Table du Gourmet) has in mind when he talks about a winstub. And of course, on the plate, there's a signature touch that's easy to recognize and appreciate: marinated salmon trout with horseradish, green apple and spring onions, pâté en croûte with foie gras, roast pike-perch with knepfles and mushrooms, suckling pig lacquered Balinese style, ginger pak choï with coriander garlic, and of course, tarts flambées. The Mon Alsace menu at €33 is very good.