Launched by Jules Girandon, who now runs his Paupiette next door, this bistro de copains is indeed aptly named, now championing an even canaille cuisine, a fine return to tradition with this gourmet menu, as well aided as ever by the cellar. In addition to the usual menu, the daily suggestions are enough to whet any appetite: a rich pâté en croûte, a pike quenelle with impeccable texture, a pretty cassoulet à la toulousaine, sausage and duck confit, a chocolate mousse. Good choice of quilles (Les hautes terres, Yann Bertrand, domaine de Montille, Weinbach, domaine de la Pinte, Pibarnon, René Bouvier...).