Colère

75009 PARIS

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

8 PHOTOS

Chef Eloi Spinnler

Gault&Millau's review

14/20

Chef's Restaurant After pride, Eloi Spinnler tackles a second sin: anger. In the heart of the bustling 9ᵉ arrondissement, here's a chic, lively restaurant, tastefully blending terracotta-colored walls, pretty printed banquettes, with pink marble bistro tables. The menu is tempting, and deserves a few explanations to decipher the phases of anger. Triggering, expression, explosion and resolution are the four phases of the menu. And it's clearly the "expression" part that caught our attention. Red rice cacio e pepe, and egg yolk like a gourmet risotto, a very pretty pink trout passed through the flame, with a duo of roasted Jerusalem artichokes and clementines, but what a great idea! As for the veal tataki, it's accompanied by chard kimchi and a veal jus that's a little too reduced. Gourmets will undoubtedly opt for this creamy duck parmentier, with its full-bodied jus and mustard pear. And if you don't want to keep your good resolutions, try this chocolate soufflé with creamy kasha ice cream, or this vanilla flan with chili chutney. The wine list is quite attractive, although the selection of wines by the glass could do with a little more encouragement from the young Beaujolais and Jura winegrowing scene. Prices are fair, the atmosphere pleasant and the chef committed to the planet.

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