Simple and straightforward, in tune with the neighborhood, this is a place that's very much of its time, with a range of dishes that sweep aside the standards of the moment, fusing cultures and opening up from one continent to another: red tuna in ponzu sesame jelly, Thai mango jalapenos, duck with sweet potato puree and citrus timut condiment, crispy corn with juniper juice, churros with melting apple gel and coffee sorbet with yoghurt thyme...