At Les Romains, Alban Chanteloup caters for connoisseurs, amateurs and unannounced visitors alike. While his cuisine is well-constructed and built on solid foundations, with just the right amount of homemade condiments, he nonetheless favors a short, seasonal menu that's accessible to all, starting with the four-course €46 lunch menu (in the evening, you'll need to plan ahead, as we start at 6 for €70): braised leek with almond, caper and anchovy; steamed hake with snacked spinach and lime condiment; grilled venison with pumpkin-pressed plum condiment; chocolate tart... A warm setting, natural wood, a warm welcome and a well-stocked cellar.