If you ask Vai Kuan Vong, "How long have you been here?", he answers with a big, mischievous smile and an accent that's still very much in evidence: "45 years! A long time, producing, year after year, the best Peking duck in Paris, and the expected classic creations: dim sum, chicken with oyster sauce, filet of beef à la széchuanaise and a few Vietnamese dishes that this Macau-born chef has mastered just as well.