He's someone, and not just anyone, this Léon de Dijon: a pure Burgundian bistro who's been at the wheel for ages with the same knowledge and the same desire to please. Tourists join regulars for this Burgundian feast. There's no end to the generosity on the plate, with pig's trotter, eggs meurette and homemade terrine "recette de ma mère", beef cheek bourguignon, veal quasi jus corsé, rack of pork with mustard sauce, and crêpes Suzette to round things off. A few dishes of the moment to liven things up, like the sweetbread vol-au-vent with morel mushrooms the other day.