Chez Jeannette - Commanderie de Peyrassol

Rating: 14.5
Author: Gault&Millau

83340 FLASSANS-SUR-ISSOLE

14.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

5 PHOTOS

Chef: Benjamin Le Balch
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Local | Provençale
Services: Garden | Terrace
Style: Exceptional setting | Romantic | With family

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

63 to 95

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Restaurants in the vineyards are flourishing in Provence, for the site, for the luxury, for the calm. Tourists, whether wine enthusiasts or not, appreciate these chic, privileged evenings in the quiet of the vineyards. So it was that Peyrassol entered the fray, proposing that Michel Portos add an intimate, gastronomic table to his first bistro unit. The Cuisinier de l'Année 2012, a fine sleuth and unrivalled taster, has therefore installed a very good element, almost overqualified for the exercise: Vivien Rouleaud, who came through the Chabichou and various winning experiences, makes remarkable use of the site, the vast kitchen garden and the Mediterranean, in a short Provencal menu where each composition shows character and flavor: the cucumber in declension with the salad in caviar bottarga granita is very successful, as are the radish, local ricotta and fermented bell pepper vinaigrette, the Mediterranean pike-perch provided by Mathieu Chapel, the champion of responsible fishing, matured for a good week, tender and wild, and superbly accompanied by Japanese barbecued zucchini and zucchini vierge, and the perfectly cooked pig, again supported by remarkable crunchy green beans, almond, black garlic, fig leaf and vegetable jus. Pastry chef Victor is equally adept: a fine job on the blackberry, coffee coldbrew and balsamic, as on the apricot and shiso vinaigrette apricot sliced with estate olive oil. All we can hope for now is that the ambition of the owners matches the talent of the team, by going beyond the simple role of tourist guide, a pretext for cellar visits and sales of the estate's wines. In particular, by building a real wine list, giving carte blanche to those who know how to do it, because the tools and talents are there. Very good young service contributing to the success of the moment.