The real Corsica is Jacqueline's, from this arbour for lovers of the island and its traditions, not the fantasy Corsica of locavore tourists. In the shade, on the terrace, a quarter of an hour from Corte and off the beaten track, you can enjoy one of the best meals of pure Corsican delicacies. The charcuterie, even in summer, is really good, especially the coppa, the buglidicce are generous, served with fresh anchovies, the veal is of a rare taste and melting, with these big beans in sauce that you really lick off the plate. The cheese can make for a happy ending: it too is a true Corsican, powerful, long-awaited, married with a delicious fig jam. The €35 menu is for ferocious appetites, but everything can be taken à la carte and shared. And if you ask the young waiter "But who does the cooking here?"; he replies with pride: "It's my grandmother! ".