This is a classic Parisian brasserie, an old-fashioned bistro right down to the handwritten menu, where fine traditions are the order of the day. It's a successful exercise in style, with an inspired setting and well-executed dishes, including beef museau, parsley ham, poultry liver terrine with herbs, grilled turbot steak with Béarnaise sauce, grilled entrecôte with marrow, pavé du mail and baba au vieux rhum.