Clever, contemporary cuisine and a fine cellar are the keys to success for Cécile, who adds the pleasant, central setting of Les Carmes and a service that's always on the ball. A five-course tasting menu at €42 for lunch (€52 and €60 in the evening), a short but eloquent menu, with pressed farmhouse pig's cheek with shiitake wasabi chantilly, butternut royale with chestnut bruschetta raclette emulsion, duck fillet with bbq and kumquat jus... A nice dessert (almond financier with hazelnut ice cream), in a sober, fresh setting.