The extreme competition in Calvi doesn't make it easy for our investigators. Among the (too) few recommended addresses is this restaurant-caviste (open only for dinner) on boulevard Wilson. No view of the yachts, but a well-polished cuisine, both bistro-style and refined: pan-fried squid with mild garlic, pan-fried lamb's brains with capers, fricassee of sweetbreads with morel mushrooms, risotto of wild prawns... For wines, you can pick directly from the store's shelves, taking advantage of the owner's advice (distilled down to a trickle if you look too much like a tourist).